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THE PAPER / EATS

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Monroe Street Bistro is no copycat
Formidable!

It's a little daring -- you might even say brash -- to open up a little bistro just down the street from a very similar restaurant, and name your endeavor the Monroe Street Bistro. After all, Brasserie V was there first. The temerity! But sit down at one of Monroe Street Bistro's little tables, and you'll find hardly a shadow of arrogance. >More Papa Bear's brings barbecue that's just right to the east side

Madison is not barbecue country. Kansas City is barbecue country. With a population only double that of Madison, KC hosts more than 90 barbecue joints. You can count Madison's on the fingers of one hand. And two of them don't serve beer. It's a crying shame. >More

TABLE TALK

La Brioche's David Yankovitch, co-owner

Remember Bakers' Rooms and Ovens of Brittany? Those vanished culinary institutions were the brainchildren of Joanna Guthrie, holistic foods practitioner and the mother of Madison's morning bun tradition. Yankovitch, an original member of Guthrie's flock, went on to own two previous incarnations of La Brioche. The second, in Midvale Plaza, was done in by development. In its brand-new, much more ambitious life, La Brioche brings back all the flavor and ambience of that original Bakers' Rooms and then some. >More Plaka Taverna's Telly Fatsis, owner

A legendary old diner is reincarnated in August as Mad City boho chic — a gentle model of urban renewal that calls for celebration. Do it with dolmades, and a shot of ouzo. >More

LOCAL FLAVOR

Beets that can't be beat
Prizewinning latkes — with no potatoes

Deny it all you want, but it's official: Summer's over. Autumn is here. Say goodbye to tomatoes and basil; say hello to potatoes and cabbage. >More Hoe improvement
Cambridge gardener teaches an old tool new tricks

Not that it means much for the jungle that is my garden, but I have a fine collection of hoes and weeders in my tool shed: short-handled ones, long-handled ones, Korean style, swope style, hula style and more. But my absolute favorite is the long-handle CobraHead hoe. >More

BEER

The Malt House keeps the focus on the brews

The recently opened Malt House at the corner of East Washington Avenue and Milwaukee Street is receiving high praise from those seeking the perfect pint. There are two big reasons: It serves an ever-changing beer list with more than 170 bottle and tap selections. And those beers are served over what may be the oldest wooden bar in the city. >More

DINING

Dinner and a movie
We pair terrific takeout with flick picks

No one likes a chewer at the movies. It boggles the mind that theaters sell nachos. Of all the possible snack foods, why choose one of the loudest? >More Tavern time
Small burger-and-fry grills shall not perish from the earth

To a certain segment of the population, there's nothing more alluring than a vintage sign for Pabst Blue Ribbon hanging outside a converted farmhouse or an old hotel. The house-turned-tavern is as old as the concept of the public house itself — Madison's first pioneer residents, Rosaline and Eben Peck, were tavern- and innkeepers. >More

THE DAILY / EATS

Beer Here -- Octoberfest from Central Waters

The 175th celebration of Oktoberfest in Munich is well under way. The annual 16-day event opened this year on September 20 and runs through October 5, this being the traditional closing date of the first Sunday of October. The festival began as a wedding party for Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese von Sachsen-Hildburghausen on October 17, 1810. Today, it just might be the world's most renowned beer festival -- particularly when one considers the brew made for the occasion has emerged into a distinctive and industry-accepted style. >More Dobra Tea and Fu Gu move onto State and Gilman
Comings and goings in the Madison restaurant world

Dobra Tea, 449 State St., is downtown's first spot devoted specifically to tea. It's a quiet oasis and borrows its atmosphere and decor from the regions of the world where tea is grown and relished -- India, China, Japan, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Turkey. You won’t find many traces of the Real Chili outlet that previously occupied the space -- Dobra is a real getaway from the West. There is another Dobra Tea located in Burlington, Vermont; the State Street branch opened in August. >More Schlitz beer returns to Madison

The beer that made Milwaukee famous is returning around Wisconsin for another shot at glory. The original version of Schlitz beer hasn't been around since the 1960s, but the once familiar maroon and gold six-pack carton of brown bottles will soon be back in Madison, complete with that slogan and the exhortation to "Go For the Gusto." >More La Baguette bakery arrives in Madison from Minocqua
Pleasing patisseries for 500, Alex?

The popular -- even famed -- La Baguette bakery of Minocqua pulled up stakes from that northern Wisconsin resort community last August and this past Saturday opened a new site in the Cambridge Court shopping center on Madison's west side. >More Hallelujah, Flavor of India and its buffet comes to the Square
So long, Fit City Madison -- hello chicken tikka masala

The long-awaited Flavor of India on Mifflin Street has opened its doors. Never mind that Maharani, which also features a buffet, is down West Wash just three blocks from the Square at Broom Street -- and if you're doing an all-you-can-eat Indian buffet, you can probably use the walk. On the other hand... when you have only an hour for lunch, every minute at the buffet table counts. And let's not forget those below-zero, icy days of I-Don’t-Want-To-Go-Outside. >More
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FOOD AND DRINK

Gotham Bagels: Holy cream cheese, Batman!

We were heading to Mount Horeb for lunch when one of those oddly apocalyptic summer storms whipped up, the kind that seems to have become, suddenly, freakishly routine. The radio was making noises about running for cover, and we decided maybe it wasn't worth the broken bones and twisted neck, and that long, tempting tunnel of light, even for a really good lunch. So we turned back to Madison, and that's how we ended up, drenched, at Gotham Bagels for lunch instead. >More Welcoming the gastropub
The concept is taking hold here -- maybe

Those who dine on the isthmus and in parts adjacent have become aware of certain trends at neighborhood restaurants. Some might notice an upgrade in beer offerings. Others might recognize a more sophisticated -- but not pretentious -- feel to the menu or the atmosphere. >More

BEER

New Glarus Brewing: The brewhaus the Careys built
With a new facility, New Glarus looks to the future

When we're enjoying a cold pint of beer, we may not think much about the next one. But lately Deb and Dan Carey, owners of the New Glarus Brewing Company, have indeed been contemplating the beer coming down the line. >More

FRINGE FOODS

Fringe Foods: A Summer Olympics meal at Hong Kong Wok
Celebrating the Beijing Games with traditional Chinese fare -- chicken feet, congee, and century egg

It's fair to say that the Beijing Olympics are the water cooler topic of the week. Even cynics can't help themselves. Go ahead. Hum the anthem. Anyone with a TV knows either the "Olympic Fanfare and Theme" by John Williams or "Bugler's Dream" by Leo Arnaud. So hum away, because it's been in my head now since the Games started on August 8. >More Fringe Foods: The Madison Mallards version of the Luther Burger
Go whole doughnut with the Glazer Bacon Cheeseburger at the Duck Pond

Men of prodigious appetites often become known for their favorite foodstuffs. Elvis Presley had his fried peanut butter and banana sandwiches. John Madden enjoys a good turducken when the season is right. "Joliet" Jake Blues famously ordered "four fried chickens and a Coke." And now, Luther Vandross has, as part of his legacy, the Luther Burger. >More
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